Steak (formerly known as Adam) trotted past me with ease. "You taking it easy today, Arrow?" he asked. "Yeah you know, sleeping in, taking breaks, walking slow..." I replied. "That's what we like, an arrow that flies like an arrow and not a rocket," he said. I laughed. I had indeed been taking it easy. I was feeling lazy after a nearo in Warner springs, as was expected. I always lose my momentum after time in towns. Plus it was another hot day. I trailed the others as we made our way North. Steak sped ahead, then suddenly stopped short, halting our line. "Is that...?" his voice trailed off. "Oh!
Back away!" I said quickly, peeking around his pack. A huge rattlesnake lay stretched across the tail. It didn't rattle. Rather, it eyed us for a moment, then slowly glided on. Finally we found the side trail that led to Mikes place. Mike is a trail angel who graciously provides water and food to all who stop by. As I approached the run-down buildings and cluttered yard, a girl ran up and shoved a watermelon slice in my hand. Yum. It wasn't much, but watermelon and shade was all I needed.
The Rattlesnacks sat in a cluster, trying to figure out mileage and camping spots for the next few days. Hiking had turned into a plan-ahead game. It had to be, if we were all trying to stay together. But that meant less freedom; a mile quota and group meant you were more tied down. Since everyone had different ideas on what they wanted to do and where they wanted to stay, it looked like the Rattlesnacks were starting to separate. I just wanted to walk till I felt like stopping-- not plan ahead. I do that to much in real life. After a while, I didn't have the energy to look at guides and miles any longer, so I just decided to do what everyone else was doing that night. When it got cool enough, we set off for a ridge-top campsite. It was beautiful to watch the sun set and snuggle in sleeping bags under the stars. It was a perfect night; the whole clan camping together for the first time (all other nights one or two of us was a few miles ahead or behind).
I did not want to get up. I was tired of racing the sun. But I knew if I slept in I would regret it, so I forced myself up and started the day. Another long morning push before it got too hot. I headed down hill in the dawn light, keeping pace,
when suddenly my left ankle gave way and I went down. The heavy gallon of water resting in the top of my pack sent me straight to the ground, despite my trekking poles attempt to save me. My pants ripped and I skinned my knee. After assessing the damage I sat there for a moment, starting at the moon. This is ridiculous. Gathering strength, I hosted myself up and pushed on.
I covered almost all the miles for the day before Southbound and I found a place to crash in the shade of some rocks. I wedged myself in a nook and took a nap as we waited out the heat of the day. Three hours later I braved the sun again and pounded out the remaining two miles to Mary's place.
Mary is a trail angel who provides water, a privy, shade, and camping at the edge of her property. She had a mini library and a space for relaxing and reflecting. Mary waved to us as she rode by on her horse and later came down with her dog to make sure we were all OK. I've been touched by the kindness of the trail angels on the PCT so far. These people don't just do tail magic every now and then, but for the whole thruhiking season.
We got to the cafe shortly after it opened and stayed until after they closed. Paradise Valley Cafe is extremely kind to thruhikers, letting them wait out the heat, fill waters, and even sleep on the property. After a small breakfast, I was exited for lunch. Though not overly hungry yet, I went ahead and ordered a burger, hoping to be hungry by the time it came out. Half an hour later a huge patty topped with glistening mushrooms and melted cheese on a toasted bun was set before me. I took my time eating it, pacing myself as we played cards. Shortly after taking the last bite I could feel my blood thicken and my eyes glaze over. My brain shut down all unnecessary systems as it tried to process the massive glob of food in my stomach. The next two hours were spent in a state of half-consciousness, not unlike the pizza overload after the smokes on the AT (story here). You would think I would have learned.
We moved to the patio when they closed at 3:00 and I decided I had better get back to the tail. We still had 7 miles to go, after all. We didn't have to wait long for a hitch back to the trail. An old beat up truck came cruising down the road. "I bet they'll stop," T.C. said. Sure enough, they pulled into the parking lot. "You guys trying to hitch a mile?" a dude with a long beard and big grin hopped out. "Yup," we confirmed. "Hahahahaha," he laughed, "hop on in, but hurry, its a $100 fine (no seat belts)". We climbed into the covered truck bed, thankful for the ride.
Back on the trial, the hill grew steeper, the path rockier, the sun hotter. By the time I made it to the water source, I felt sick. I did not function well on food overload. "You know what's nice about having a tail family?" I asked in a pathetic voice, "they can get water for each other...." I left it hanging. "So... You are going to get water for us?" Southbound asked. "Well, no, I was hoping you would get it," I replied. Thankfully Stretch took pity and volunteered to walk the half mile round-trip to fill my water along with her own.
With bottles full, I trudged up the hill to the campsite. "Wow, you look rough," T.C. said, as I walked into camp and wordlessly threw down my poles. I silently set up my bed and went to sleep. Too much food. Never again.
I felt better in the morning but had a restless night sleep. The miles seemed to be taking forever. The uphill was incredibly steep, and rivaled many of the hills on the AT. I slowly put one foot on front of the other, stopping often to take a breather. I heard a familiar rattle to my right. I swiftly leaped away, only to realize the sound was just my trekking pole hitting a bush. I guess that is one way to make me go faster.
Finally I made it to the fire closure. Ten miles of trail were closed because of a fire a few years ago, and they hadn't gotten it cleared out yet, so we had to take a five mile side trail down to the road. On the long downhill I met an amazing couple who told us there was trail magic at the road, and offered a ride into Idyllwild if we would wait. I eagerly raced the remaining miles to the magic, and enjoyed an apple and chocolate donuts while they finished their hike. A few hours later, the whole crew was chilling in an amazing cabin, eager to have a break from the grind of thruhiking.
Idyllwild is a beautiful desert mountain town full of trees, kind people, tourist shops, and a dog for a mayor (Seriously, he was voted in. Look it up.) We enjoyed our first zero day, playing games, cooking meals, watching a movie, meeting Mayor Max, and eating mint chocolate chocolate milk milkshakes (my own recipe- YUM!).
The time flew by, and I had barely gotten all my chores (laundry, resupplying, cleaning, etc.) done before I found myself back outside again, taking a side trail back to the PCT to meet the other side of the fire closure.
New to my blog? I use a lot of interesting slang in this post. Check out the Thruhiking Dictionary for some clarification.
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