Easter morning we decided to do a sunrise hike, but we weren't exactly sure what time the sun rose. Playing it safe, we woke at 5:30 AM and set off. Unfortunately the fog and mist hid the sun so we crossed over the ridge and descended into the valley, guided by a string of lights running across Fontana Dam.
Fontana Dam is a cute little mountain resort just off the trail, where most thruhikers stop to resupply before the Smokies. At the lodge we picked up our mail drops and found the computer to print off Smokies permits. I entered my information only to receive a message that the payment page was down. Firefly called the listed number and a very unhelpful man said he could not issue permits because their web page was down as well. Ugh. Technology.
We were supposed to enter Smoky Mountain National Park the next day but couldn't without a permit, and now we couldn't get a permit. What were we to do? Waste away at Fontana Dam? I was quite frustrated and mad at myself for not getting permits earlier. The setback didn't seem to affect Firefly, but I sulked in a corner. To cheer myself up I ate a lot of chocolate and cheese, both of which always make you feel better. Unless, of course, you are allergic to either, in which case eating them would make you feel worse. Fortunately I am not allergic to these delights so I cheered up rather quickly, reminding myself that it will all work out in the end and to keep a positive attitude.
I would call again later and persist until I got a permit. In the meantime, we did some laundry and charged our phones. As the afternoon approached we got ready to call the ranger station again. I saw a guy tucking away an official looking document and asked how he got his permits. "I called the office," he replied with a shrug. Woohoo! We won't be stuck in the town forever after all! With gusto I dialed the number and successfully received a permit.
With packs over 40lbs because of our excessive amount of food, we got a ride back to the trail. After a few miles we made it to the Fontana Hilton. Every eight miles or so there are shelters located along the trail for hikers who choose to use them. At most they offer protection from heavy storms and at least they help keep the environmental impact at a minimum. The Fontana Hilton shelter strived to be the best. There were concrete tent pads, picnic tables, fire rings, a water spigot, a solar electronic charging station, a two-level split shelter, and even a bathroom with running water- toilets and showers! If that doesn't make it awesome, the location will. It sits on a hill, overlooking Fontana Lake, views of the mountains in the distance. I had the best nights sleep on level ground, snug in my tent.
"I'm excited check out the Dam visitors center," Firefly said, as we walked along the sidewalk trail. "Yeah, and we can use the Dam toilets," I agreed. "And we can take a Dam shower," Firefly added. "And check out the Dam view," I replied.
Unfortunately everything was closed and locked except for the bathrooms. We hadn't showered in days and we weren't about to enter the Smokies without one, for it would be seven more days until we would get another opportunity. Taking advantage of our current resources, we decided to wash our hair in the clean sinks.
Now, there are moments in a hikers life when the reality of homelessness hits, and this was one of them. But it was worth it, for with clean hair and lots of laughs, we set out across the dam and into the Smoky Mountains.
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