The day was surreal. Eerie. Creepy. Strange. I can't quite describe it. Perhaps it was because we were walking through a haze, or maybe it was the fact that we saw absolutely zero hikers, but it was quite unsettling. All morning felt like a dream or alternate reality until we officially reached the quarter way point.
The trail crossed through some privately owned pastures and finally spit out onto a road. I paused to look at a sign declaring the Appalachian Dreamer Hostel was opening that very day. Hmm... maybe I can talk Firefly into going, I thought. Though we had only done 11 miles, I really wanted a break and a nice place to stay. This one looked amazing, upholding Christian values. Firefly was sitting on the back of a truck talking to a man and waved me over. The trail angel offered a soda and an oatmeal cream pie, which I gratefully accepted.
Lumbermack the trail angel had completed his thruhike in 2006, and it turned out he was the owner of the hostel down the road. He told all kinds of stories about how he got there and what he did to get the hostel up and running. "Aren't you afraid of letting strangers into your house?" A lady had asked him as he was setting up his hostel. "Well they aren't strangers," he had replied, "they are someone's kid or parent or spouse." Apparently the locals weren't too happy with hikers, falsely accusing them for the roadside trash.
As he went to grab a trash bag for our cans, I whispered to Firefly, "Do you want to stay?" We quickly discussed options. I begged her with my eyes. "I'm ok with it," she replied. Woohoo! I think she was eager for a good rest as well. We informed Lumbermack that we would like to stay at his place and he gave us a ride up a huge hill. Iron gates opened to a beautiful house with an epic view. We kept gasping with delight as he showed us the brand new bunkroom, bathrooms, lounge, and kitchen (with free pbj sandwiches!). Everything smelled like freshly cut cedar, and was sparkling clean. Lumbermack was so humble about his place but I could tell he was overflowing with pride and joy at our excitement.
Lumbermack gave us some apple pie and checked up on us often to make sure all our needs were met. I think we got extra attention, being the first to stay in the new place. For a while it looked like we would be the only ones there, but soon he left and returned with the ladies we had last seen at the pizza shelter. It was a happy reunion.
Lumbermack not only had the hostel, but a small farm as well. Firefly and I went down to feed his goats and donkeys "cookies." Once they saw what we had, they came running.
Soon it was our turn to eat, and six thruhikers plus Lumbermack sat around the table with steaming plates of spaghetti and garlic bread. We held hands to say grace. The environment was so very refreshing; small group in a welcoming atmosphere. It was the most comfortable I had been all trail.
Bacon, sausage, fresh eggs, toast, and homemade apple sauce awaited us at the breakfast table. Fuel for the huge climb up to Chestnut Knob. A ride in the back of the pickup brought us to the trailhead and we climbed all day.
The shelter at the top could have served as someone's home: four sided with a door and window, a picknick table inside, along with bunks. I opted to sleep in my hammock so I headed to the trees. It was a relaxing afternoon, reading, writing, sketching, and talking.
It rained in the morning, meaning we got to sleep in. The terrain was easy and I quickly got in the zone hiking. Before I knew it I arrived at the next shelter and stopped for lunch. A Southbounder arrived and informed me of fantastic trail magic at the next road crossing. Firefly hadn't showed up yet so I left a note saying that I would meet her at the trail magic.
The southbounder hadn't lied; the trail angels had thought of everything-- hot food, trail food to go, charging station, tp, letters to send home, repair kit, first aid kit... they had rented a uhaul and driven down from Pennsylvania. All this was in memory of their son-in-law who had thruhiked in 2010, was diagnosed with colon cancer in 2011, and passed in 2012. It was something they had talked about doing with him but they never got the chance. They were such incredible people.
There was a campsite nearby so it was so lovely to walk from the trail magic right into my hammock. That doesn't happen often.
El Cinco De Mayo. Woke in the rain. Walked in the rain. Set up camp in the rain. Went to bed in the rain. Other events of the day included a confusing road crossing in Bland, VA, reaching the 600 mile marker, shivering in the 40 degree weather, and saying hi to zombies in the shelter who just stared back at me in return.
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